Don't go to Paraguay

It may seem obvious to you, but you're wrong. Paraguay is nice, the land is pretty, and the people are amazing. Don't go though, at least not alone. There is no tourist infrastructure. The buses are complicated, the heat is like nothing you've ever experienced, and the most highly recommended tourist attractions by Lonely Planet no longer exist. Gun enthusiast be aware, there are lots of them in Paraguay, and if you stand in front of the right buildings just long enough, you'll probably get to inspect the business end for great lengths of time.

Its not all bad though. I had an absolutely amazing time visiting the least visited UNESCO world heritage in the whole world. The Jesuit ruins at Trinidad and Jesus are amazing. Spending time exploring the massive ruins completely by oneself makes one feel a little like they are Indiana Jones.

In Argentina they tell you that they are the biggest yerba mate drinkers in all the world. Then they turn around and make fun of Uruguayans for carrying around the jugs of hot water so they can have mate during the day. Both of these countries have nothing on Paraguay. Since it is impossible to work in Paraguay between 12-5 because of the heat, the people of Paraguay sit around drinking Terere (yerba mate with lemon grass and mint). They drink it without eating for at minimum 5 hours a day. Each driver of every bus has a special boy who sits in the front with him and pours him more water into his mate cup in order to not miss a beat on the terrible Paraguay highways. The most extreme example is that I once saw a girl at an intersection in Encarnacion on the back of a motorcycle pouring more water into her open cup so she could drink on the go.

The one story that must be told about Paraguay though involves an infamous (and often overstated) part of South American 20th Century history. I arrived in a little town by the name of Lomo Plata after sunset in the middle of the Gran Chaco. The town had less then 300 people and the only place to stay in town was already full upon arrival. I had no idea what to do, so I went door to door asking if they had an extra bed I could rent for the night. Since this town only exists as part of Mennonite settlements, many of the people were quite brash in their refusal to allow me near their home. The last house on the street was a different story. They were amazingly nice, they offered me a bed, food, and company. They (like the rest of the Mennonites) were tall, blond, and pale. Except this family was clearly not part of the church. They told me to take a seat in the living room for a moment while they fixed up the bed. While sitting down, I couldn't help but look above the fireplace to a massive authentic WWII Nazi banner, swastika and all. I had final come upon my proof of the Nazis who escaped to South America after 1945. They had pictures of some relatives in the full SS uniform around the house as well. They turned out to be nice people: the fed me, helped me arrange a bus, and saw me on my way. They welcomed me back in the future if I ever returned to the Gran Chaco, yet I think my thirst for the Gran Chaco has been quenched for life.

Sadly I don't have pictures of the situation, but I do have a couple more cool pictures of the national graves of many of the national heroes of Paraguay as well as some a great example of the extreme (and possible most noticeable of any country I have ever been to) difference between the super rich and the poor masses.